Colorado DIY Public Land Elk Hunt: A Rookie Perspective

This October I embarked on my first ever elk hunt in Colorado. The reasons for which I chose the great state of Colorado were based on nonresident opportunity, total elk population, and vicinity to my home in Florida. A great resource for choosing a state to hunt is www.backcountrychronicles.com. The site has a fairly inexpensive guide you can download which contains a wealth of information for choosing the state you’d like to pursue for your hunt. Dan Allen, the site proprietor, is a great resource and is highly responsive to inquiries regarding his publication. I won’t be covering how to choose your destination, as I feel there are a plethora of articles out there that cover the topic better than a one-time hunter such as myself ever could. The purpose of this article is to cover my hunt, and what worked for me as a first time DIY public land elk hunter.

I began researching for an elk hunt in 2017, and after two years, I finally decided 2019 was going to be the year I “pulled the trigger.” Choosing a unit was probably the most time consuming portion of the endeavor. I consulted various sources, with the most important/ beneficial being the draw results and harvest records found on the Colorado Parks and Wildlife website (https://cpw.state.co.us/thingstodo/Pages/DrawResults_PreferencePoints.aspx). Using the results, I was able to narrow down the best unit for my purposes. Most important to me was the nonresident draw success rate, and overall harvest success rates during the first rifle season. First rifle is not over the counter and requires a quota drawing that is not 100% guaranteed. I made sure to choose a unit that had a fairly high chance of me being drawn as a nonresident with zero preference points. Then June results were made available, and with a tag now in hand, internet scouting went into overdrive.

To meet my needs I had to find an area where I could bring a camper, establish camp, and day hunt from there. I brought my wife and our nine month old daughter along, so a back country hunt with spike camps was out of the question. I consulted MVU Maps to determine where we could set up a dispersed camp site along access roads. Even if you plan to drive in and camp at your truck, these maps will be indispensable. I was able to determine a general area we would be able to camp, and planned my hunt accordingly.

Our Campsite, with a deceiving fish eye view

Our Campsite, with a deceiving fish eye view

The funny thing about internet scouting, satellite imagery, and topography maps is that no matter how much you research your area, the on the ground view will always throw a monkey wrench in your plans. As a Louisiana native and current Florida resident, topography basically consists of flat and wet... with not much in between. Down in the southeast we tend to view the landscape one marsh or pine plantation at a time. Based on my limited experience, I was sure I could scale the mountainsides of my unit and secure some excellent glassing locations like you see on all the elk hunting videos. As we drove down our access road to my unit, I quickly realized how wrong I was in this regard. The area was essentially a series of canyons characterized by river bottoms with steeply jutting cliff faces capped by some of Colorado’s highest peaks. We made our way up the long, winding gravel road hoping to find established campsites that would accommodate our truck and 17’ camper. After bottoming out our rig on the various washouts that peppered the access road, we settled on a previously established site that included a fire pit and sheer cliff wall with ominous rock fall from prior erosion events. This was a perfect example of why it pays to scout in advance, but the ability to do so is not in the cards for everyone, so take what you can get.

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We established camp and I spent the night consulting On-X maps to determine likely elk habitat within the immediate area. There was a system of meadows within easy hiking distance on the other side of a river that coursed its way through our canyon, so I decided to focus my efforts there. Opening morning did not result in discovery of fresh sign, but based on tracks and droppings I was able to determine elk had used the meadows prior to the snow/freeze that hit the area just before our arrival. One other sign of note was the slightly sweet, pungent, and almost “piney” scent I noticed hanging around the meadow. I had heard elk have a very particular aroma, but having never experienced it in person, I chalked the smell up to the various horse tracks strewn about the area. My day one plan proved unsuccessful in the meadows, so I decided to focus my efforts on scouting the timberline above. There was plenty of sign, but nothing to solidify my hunch that elk were frequenting the area recently. Come morning two of the season I decided to sit a different meadow near camp in hopes I’d hear vocalizations at the very least. This meadow contained the skeletal remains of an elk, and was therefore named “bone meadow” by my wife. It paid off as I heard multiple bugles and grunts coming from the dark timber between the meadow and the canyon wall. Not wanting to push elk from the area on day two of the season, I decided to hang tight until later in the morning. Once again I trekked up the mountain during the late morning hoping to find some of the crooning elk from the morning sit, but this again proved unfruitful. I decided to sit a different meadow in the evening of day two, hoping my change in locale would bring success. While no elk appeared that evening, I was graced with the presence of a Shiras Bull Moose that appeared within 15 yards of my position. This was treated as a wonderful omen, and significantly lifted my spirits for the next day.

Morning three brought a new sense of invigoration, and I committed to sitting “bone meadow” in hopes I’d once again hear those sweet bugles emanating from the dark timber. Come sunrise, bugles were nonexistent, but multiple grunts were heard from the timber just above the meadow. Soon after sunrise I committed to my original plan and started slowly making my way along game trails that coursed through the timber. Through my research, and some pointers from fellow Fall Obsession Staffer Kurt Echelberry, I knew killing bulls in timber was doable, but required a very slow and steady approach. I made my way two to three steps at a time hoping to hear some sign of elk nearby, and after about an hour of hunting through the timber, I finally heard it... a beautifully haunting bugle from the tree-line above my position. The early morning thermals were just right, pushing my scent in a downwind direction away from the bull and his domain. I painstakingly ascended the slope one sound-dampening footrest at a time, constantly monitoring the wind direction as I approached. Not long after hearing the first calls, another challenger entered the fray, and a separate bugle could be heard. I was immediately concerned another hunter was working and pursuing the bull I’d found. I resolved myself to backing off if I were to see hunter orange on the horizon, but I never did. The bulls continued to bugle back and forth, allowing an opportunity to continue my push up the mountain. Slowly making my way up a ridge on my hands and knees, I heard the closest bull bugle, and knew he would soon be in range. With slight trepidation, I poked my head above the crest and saw two cow elk wandering beneath a rock outcropping. These two cows were the first elk I had seen on this trip, and with my either sex tag I was prepared to take a cow, but almost immediately they scampered out of view behind a large boulder. Just as I was preparing to shoot one of these cows upon reemergence, a set of antlers appeared at my 1’ o clock in a gap between rock and dead-fall!

The bull did not present a clean shot immediately, but began to make his way to my right and would soon present an open shot in a gully. To my surprise, he diverted at the last second and appeared within 20 yards of my location, presenting a shot bracketed by a triangle of dead-fall and tree trunk. I raised my rifle and was met with resistance from a tree branch snagging my sling! Recovery was swift, but not without eye contact between the bull and myself. I quickly secured a sight picture behind his shoulder and pulled the trigger just as he prepared to flee...BAM! The elk jumped away to my left, bounding into the timber. It was over in less than 30 seconds from when I first saw the cows, although my slowed perception of time made it feel like minutes.

Notice the air bubbles?

Notice the air bubbles?

The first step to solving a problem is admitting you have one right? I ABSOLUTELY know to wait for at least 30 minutes to an hour before tracking a mortally wounded animal, but every time I find myself trying to locate that first drop of blood almost instantly. Then it becomes a feedback loop where I find a drop and push on to the next, and the next, and the next, and well I think you get the point. I have the same problem walking game trails, I can’t stop myself. Finally, on this trip I was able to break the cycle...mostly. After shooting the elk I stepped forward to find my first hit confirmation. There was a pin prick of blood on the grass where he previously stood. This of course fueled my aforementioned addiction, so I pressed on in the direction the bull fled. A little further down his escape path I found a large drop of bright red blood riddled with air bubbles, confirming a lethal lung hit. I decided to wait at least 30 minutes before pursuing further, a real breakthrough considering my history...

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After an hour of pacing back and forth over the same 3 blood splatters, I found myself strolling along a fallen tree thinking all was lost. Feeling defeated I scanned my surroundings wondering how this animal could have possibly eluded me, when I noticed an odd looking heap of golden brown and branching antlers lying in a small gully about 40 yards to my right. Initially I wondered if the bull was only bedded, but a further inspection left no question... he was dead. While approaching the bull I noticed a large pool of blood just shy of his final resting place, not far from my last blood sign, signaling he never made it far from the initial shot.

Dirt on the other side of the elk and pine needles above made for a messy butchering process

Dirt on the other side of the elk and pine needles above made for a messy butchering process

To quote Mike Tyson, “everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth.” This is exactly how I felt when first surveying the bull and trying to determine the best way to get the meat off the mountain. My biggest concern was discovering the elk was gut shot. Despite a broadside shot, my bullet fragmented upon hitting rib bone and managed to nick the innards upon exiting. A sense of panic washed over as I realized the clock was ticking, but thanks to hours of watching other hunters use the gutless method, I knew I could break the elk down without losing a lot of meat. I won’t lie and tell you it was clean and flawless. The elk managed to die in a dirt lined gully with pine boughs hanging just over the carcass. This made for very challenging field dressing, and in the end I found myself with elk quarters covered in hair, pine needles, and dirt, but with the cold, dry air a rind developed overnight on the quarters. The only meat lost was the tenderloins, and while unfortunate, all things considered I made out okay.

Good to be back!

Good to be back!

Back at camp, I spent the night fearing scavengers would pick the elk to the bone, even though I took precautions by dragging the quarters away and covering them with extra clothes in my pack. Fortunately the next morning I found the meat undisturbed. A few miles, stumbles, bruises, and cusses later, I found myself back at camp with meat on ice and antlers in hand. Come late afternoon, we packed up and rolled out of camp on day three of rifle season, leaving the mountains behind, but taking a year’s worth of meat and a lifetime of memories home. In the end the drive was twice as long as the time we spent afield, but it was worth every minute, and I’d do it again tomorrow. Thank you Colorado for a wonderful opportunity to hunt elk on the public lands that we as Americans are so lucky to own. There are not many places in this world where you can strike off into public wilderness and harvest your own game, and it is something we should all cherish and fight to protect.

Now I’d like to tell you what worked for me and what didn't. This hunt was two years in the making, so I had plenty of time to scour the internet for tips, tricks, and tools. There are a few constants you come across when planning a hunt out west, and I’d like to share my experiences with some of them.

Don’t cut corners on footwear and backpacks

I decided to go with a pair of Lowa Tibet GTX for my boots. Like all reputable mountain footwear, they are expensive, but man was that money well spent. The shoes essentially mold to your feet, creating an almost symbiotic relationship between shoe and foot. After the first day on the mountain, I jokingly told my wife I could break my ankle in these boots and not know about it until I took them off. They really are that tough and supportive. Due to prior foot/leg injuries, I went with a set of Superfeet insoles, but the stock insoles might work just fine for you.

For my backpack I went with the Stone Glacier Solo 3600. Again, these bags aren’t cheap but you truly get what you pay for. My first impression with this pack was I just bought a pack for life. The overall build quality is astounding, and after packing my elk down, I plan to bring this pack on every hunt from the swamp to the alpine. If I can caution you on one thing, it would be to watch the video on packing meat out over and over until you commit the steps to memory. The myriad of straps and buckles can be a little confusing for the uninitiated. I realized after the fact I packed the meat out incorrectly due to unfamiliarity with the strap system.

Prepare yourself physically

An elk hunt can be a humbling experience for just about anyone. Even some of the most physically fit people you know might find themselves struggling on a pack out. If you are sitting there thinking “I wonder if I’m in good enough shape...” you aren't. I try to lift weights about 3-4 times per week, but will admit my cardio leaves something to be desired. About 12 weeks leading up to the hunt, I began following a program shared by the guys over at Stone Glacier. It consisted of sprints, stair climbs, and lunges...with the latter two under load. The physical preparation is not so much about helping you kill an elk, as it is to ensure you can bring the meat home after you knock one down. That being said, depending on where you hunt it can be just as crucial for locating elk, so for your own well-being and enjoyment, make an effort to get in shape. I can’t stress enough how important it is to prepare yourself physically and mentally to pack an elk out once you are successful. Even with all my preparation, it was still one of the hardest tasks I’ve tackled. At the very least you owe it to the animal to harvest and pack every scrap of meat you possibly can.

Don’t overestimate your marksmanship

We have all seen the shows where guys are taking 400+ yd shots, and dropping elk on the spot. I’d bet many of you could lob a round out there and connect with the target a few times out of ten, but could you do it consistently? What if there is a 20 mph crosswind? Your personal max range for taking a shot is fully dependent on your capabilities as a marksman (cartridge and rifle limitations aside). I went into this trip with a hard-fast rule that I would not take a shot over 300 yards. That was the furthest distance I trained at, so for me it was out of the question to shoot further. Do yourself, the animal, and the hunting community a favor and train at varying distances until proficient, and then you can name a maximum range.

Enjoy the moment

With an elk on the ground and the minutes clocking down, it’s easy to forget how monumental the moment is. Your primary concern is getting the meat off before any spoilage sets in. Your secondary goal should be to document the occasion with pictures and/or memories before it’s all said and done. I succumbed to a feeling of urgency around butchering the bull that ultimately led to a shortage of pictures, and honestly an overall lack of introspection on my part. If you are the kind of person that tackles challenges and tasks somewhat blindly, know that going in so you can prepare for it and hopefully soak up the moment a little more than I did. I regret not taking the time to study the bull. What did the hooves look like that made the tracks I’d been following all morning? What were the different shades of his coat? Were his teeth worn or cracked? Did he have any scars from prior encounters with hunters or other bulls? That being said I still have plenty of memories that will last a lifetime, and if in the end the only thing I’d change is the amount of time spent soaking it all in. I guess that’s an indicator of a pretty great hunt. Remember, you can always kill another elk, but you’ll only kill your first elk once.

-Kevin Johansen, Fall Obsession Pro Staff